Installing Backwashing Filters

Pure Water Products
940 382 3814

Please call if there are questions.

Note: These instructions apply to filters without chemical injectors.

Large backwashing filters are simple devices. They consist of a tank filled with a filter medium, a tube called a riser inserted into the tank, and a control valve to manage the flow of water through the filter.

Pure Water Products 1.0 and 1.5 cubic foot filters use the Fleck 5600 control valve, which is a simple, time-proven tough performer that will give many years of trouble-free service under normal conditions. It's easy to install and easy to program.

Large backwashing filters for filtering sediment, iron, or chlorine/chemicals differ only in the filter media. These instructions apply to all filters containing carbon, Centaur, Birm, filter ag, or mixed media.

For city installations, install the filter at a place before the hot water heater so that all water that you wish to filter will pass through it. For wells, the preferred installation spot is in the main water line after the pressure tank.

Shipping methods sometimes vary. Our usual way is to load the filter's gravel under-bedding in the tank before shipping but to leave the filter media for owner installation. (This makes it lighter and easier to manage for you and for the freight company.) The instructions below assume that arrangement. If your filter is shipped otherwise, please adjust the instructions accordingly.

Here's how you load the filter:

1. If the filter valve is on the tank, remove it. It screws off counterclockwise. There should be gravel in the bottom of the tank. The center tube, called a riser, will pick up filtered water from the bottom of the tank. Its lower end is buried in a bed of gravel. Work the riser all the way to the bottom of the tank. The picture below shows a tank in which the riser has ridden up in the gravel. In this condition it will be impossible to install the valve. The easy way to move the riser to the bottom of the tank is to turn the tank on its side, push the riser all the way to the bottom of the tank, then stand the tank upright while holding the riser in place. When it's correctly in place, it will extend a couple of inches above the top of the tank--no more. The riser must be down before the filter media is installed.

2. Using the funnel provided, pour the filter media into the tank. Important: Improvise a stopper or insert a plastic bag over the hole in the riser before pouring in the filter media to prevent media from going into the center hole. AVOID BREATHING THE DUST THAT COMES OFF THE FILTER MEDIUM.

It's usually easier for two people to do this job--one to hold the funnel, one to pour in the media. Pour in all the media. It will not fill the tank. It isn't supposed to. The unfilled tank space above the media bed is essential for proper backwashing of the media.

3. If the two O-rings on the valve are not lubricated, put a small amount of silicone lubricant on each. One is inside the hole in the bottom of the valve. The larger O-ring is just above the threads on the body of the filter valve.

4. If your filter has an upper basket, attach it to the bottom of the filter valve (it snaps in easily), then install the valve onto the tank as shown in the picture. MOST FILTERS WILL NOT HAVE AN UPPER BASKET. The riser goes through the hole in the upper basket and enters the hole in the center of the valve body.

Screw the valve to the tank. Hand tighten until it's snug.

The Installed Valve

5. When the valve is installed, set the filter in place and install it according to your local plumbing code. In and Out are indicated on the valve body or on the by-pass valve, if your filter has one. If you are using a by-pass valve, it may appear loose when installed to the filter with the clamps provided. No problem. The looseness is engineered into the system to provide the installer some "wiggle room." If your incoming pipe is a little too high or low, the by-pass valve will move up or down to accommodate.

Attach a drain hose to the barbed drain fitting that comes out of the back of the control valve .Secure it with a hose clamp. Attach to a drain according to local plumbing code, or if convenient, place the end of the drain line so that it can drain onto the ground. Keep in mind that during the backwash cycle the filter will run several gallons of water out the drain line.

Start-Up

When the installation is complete, start the filter through the following procedure:

Turn the large central knob on the valve face clockwise the the "Backwash" position. (The picture shows the valve in "In Service" position. Turn the knob clockwise until "Backwash" appears in the window.)

Open the inlet valve upstream from the filter part way and allow water to fill the filter slowly. A slow initial fill prevents the loss of medium via the drain line. It's also a good idea to open a faucet somewhere downstream of the filter to let air escape while the filer is filling. It may take several minutes before water begins to issue from the drain line. Allow water to flow slowly to drain for a few minutes, then open the inlet valve fully and allow water to flow through the unit. When the water runs clear (meaning that the filter medium is thoroughly rinsed), move the large dial on the valve clockwise back to "In Service" position. The filter is now installed and in service. Close the downstream faucet you opened to purge the system of air.

Special Note for Chem Sorb Filters: Chem Sorb is a very light medium and it is recommended that after the initial slow fill of the tank you bypass the filter and allow for a full 24-hour soak. This will prevent loss of medium in the initial stages of operation.

Programming the Valve

Plug in the control valve. Be sure the electrical socket matches the filter. (In other words, don't plug a 110 filter into a 220 outlet. You'll fry it.) There's no on/off switch on the valve. When it's plugged in, it's running.

This is the world's simplest (and, therefore, best) filter valve. You only have to set the time of day and select the backwash frequency. To set the time, push in the red knob on your left. This releases the large wheel and lets you rotate it to set the time. Set it to the actual time in the "Time of Day" window at the bottom/center of the wheel. It doesn't have to be exact, and you can set it wrong if it's to your advantage. The filter is pre-set to backwash in the wee hours of the morning when it won't inconvenience you. However, if, for example, you're a day sleeper and prefer that it do its business at 2:00 pm rather than 2:00 am, set the filter's clock wrong to accommodate your schedule.

Next, choose the backwash schedule with the "skipper wheel" on your right on the valve face. Select a day for backwashing simply by pushing the small metal pins outward from the center. In other words, if you want the filter to backwash every second day, push out the pins for numbers 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12. If you want the filter to backwash every third day, push out the pins for numbers 3, 6, 9, and 12. There's no fixed rule on how often the filter should be backwashed. It depends on the situation and you can determine it yourself by experimentation. For example, with an iron filter you might try every third day but if iron begins leaking through, change to every second day. There's some guessing involved, but you'll discover what works best in your situation. When in doubt, too often is better than too infrequently.

If you have problems or questions, don't hesitate to call (940) 382-3814 or email pwp@pwgazette.com.

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